Life in Zambia after (nearly) 4 months

It’s hard to believe, but we have now been in Zambia for nearly 4 months; it feels much longer! I don’t say that in necessarily a bad way. I think that time just goes so much slower here and it does make me wonder what the next 20 months or so will be like.

Since my last blog prior to Christmas, life has been relatively busy here with plenty of visitors, a trip to Namibia, work which has been actually quite busy, the set in of the rainy season and a few sadder events that are so typical of Zambia.

Onset of wet season

Perhaps I should get the sadder events out of the way first.

The first was the loss of our security guard’s 9 month old son. Well, truth be told he was never our guard, he was there for our neighbours, but we did get to know him well as he would often sit on our porch to read (we would leave the light on for him). His son died of malaria, something that should be completely preventable, but was initially diagnosed as malnutrition caused through teething. Unfortunately we became aware of the gravity of the situation too late and were unable to offer help. Made worse is that he has been reassigned to a different property and after we found out he earns only 150,000 kwacha a month (the equivalent of $34) for 7 nights a week, 12 hours a day.

Our other sad event was the death of our puppy Manqui (pronounced as “manky”). We adopted Manqui after he turned up on our door step unfed, flea infested, frightened of people and well, manky! Nearly two weeks with us saw him turn into a happy, playful puppy until he didn’t come home one night. Our puppy had caught a virus of sorts that seemed to attack his brain and nervous system. Long story short is that we had to have him put down to stop him from any further suffering. Unfortunately Zambia has some pretty violent dog viruses and the vets here are not resourced to deal with them.

Manqui: When he was still a playful puppy

Manqui sitting in our bookshelf

So life does suck sometimes in Zambia!

However, it hasn’t all been sad and there have been happier events…..

The first was spending Christmas in Zambia. Definitely not the same as spending it with family in Australia, but great to be surrounded by a good group of people, a braai, a few drinks, a couple of carols and all on the red African soil.

Christmas in Zambia helped by a great group of people to spend it with

We have had quite a few visitors over the past month which means we get to visit some of the cool places in Livingstone without needing to make an excuse! One of our trips took us (back) out to Taita Falcon Lodge; a lodge situated about a 40 min drive out of Livingstone due to the state of the road but in a stunning location at the top of the Batoka Gorge. We had Zambezi Bream and chips there for lunch, all washed down with a couple of cold beers.

Taita Falcon Lodge: Overlooking the approximately 200m drop to
Batoka Gorge. Me with VSO Volunteers Phyl (left) and Emily (middle)

Work has picked up in the new year as new opportunities to receiving funding have come the way of my organisation and an increased focus has developed on building organisational capacity for the challenges that lie ahead. We have been working together hard as a team to get things done and meet deadlines. I was also able to finally meet the our board members at our first board meeting for the year. Apart from some of the members struggling with my accent, it was great to meet them and discuss what needed to be done to kick off 2011 in the right direction.

The team working hard on a proposal

Our first Board Meeting for 2011

And so, the past month really has been quite mixed. Wet season is well and truly in full swing, but has been a welcome relief from the heat. We still continue to encounter regular power and water cuts, sometimes for up to 12 hours at a time, but you do learn to adapt. And over the coming month a number of the friends we have made here in Livingstone will be leaving us to return home to their respective countries, so the ups and downs will continue. But I guess that is the life of a volunteer in Zambia!

Mike and I

Taking it easy having sunset drinks

An introduction to Namibia

This post has been a long time in the making. We actually visited Namibia after Christmas for a week, but haven’t gotten around to writing about it yet. However I do think it rates a mention as Namibia was fantastic.

Namibia is a developing country, however there are times when driving around it that it’s easy to forget that. The roads and infrastructure (unlike in Zambia), is first world. We drove quite long distances and were amazed at how well planned and maintained things were.

One of the many well planned and maintained rest spots along the way

Our trip was a short one this time (a much bigger trip is planned for later in the year- Namibia and Botswana road trip- can’t wait!), but we did make it as far as the famous Etosha National Park. Unfortunately it wasn’t the best time of the year for animal sightings and we didn’t see any really exciting animals on this occasion, but was still great to get there and check it out.

Giraffe: Would have been a better photo without the car in front!

Plenty of Zebra

I know they're only Guinea Fowl, but I thought they were cool anyway

A lone Impala: Was the story of our day!

Mike loved the chance to take “Ruth” through the puddles (some more like small rivers).



"Ruth": Mike is so proud of this photo



Salt plain

So we were close to Etosha, we decided to stay in the town of Tsumeb. The town was actually quite strange, too quiet, but was still somewhat pretty and you could feel the German influence throughout it (and not just because of the beer). 

Windoek is Namibia's very yummy beer

Tsumeb

Tsumeb's main street: Not really happening

The camping ground we stayed at was great, fully decked and felt shiny and new. We also enjoyed a well cooked steak and nice red at the onsite restaurant “Dros”, our first in about 3 months, since we left home.

Our campsite in Tsumeb

Our first steak since leaving home. Loved the cow touch!

Enjoying a nice glass of red

On our way back to Zambia we stopped off at Ngepi Camp, a good half way point located in the Western Caprivi Strip, Kavango region.

Ngepi Camp had a great write up and we were looking extremely forward to staying there, even booking one of their Bush Huts as a bit of a treat after camping all week.

The camp is set up in a beautiful enclosure, with a “pool” fenced off in the river and a relaxed bar.

Ngepi's swimming pool

Ngepi Bar

I just loved this; was next to the pool

Our Bush Hut was a great concept, with open rooms looking out into the bush surrounds and open bathroom. However it all didn’t quite work. When we were there it was wet and the solar powered hot water was cold. So no warm shower! And to get to the bathroom we had to walk out of our room to the back of the hut in the rain. And the staff, mostly expats, all came with attitude problems, which doesn’t make for a pleasant stay.

Mike in our bush hut

The very cool view from our bush hut. Was lovely to wake up to!

Outdoor bathroom & shower. Was nice except for the cold water.

So we were a bit disappointed with Ngepi, but still tried to make the most of it sharing a bottle of sparkling.

Our bush hut celebration. We found a bottle of "Flexirent" which we
were quite excited about (for those who understand the joke)

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Overall a great trip despite a few things not going to plan. But loved Namibia and definitely looking forward to coming back later in the year.

Botswana and Chobe National Park

Being placed in Livingstone means we are fortunate to be a short drive to the borders of 3 other countries- Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. A real novelty when you come from Australia!

A few weeks ago we took advantage of our close proximity to Botswana and took an overnight trip with other volunteers to the town of Kasane and Chobe National Park, renowned as an elephant park. Our goal: to see as many elephants as we could!

Chobe National Park, Botswana

I won’t blog too much on Chobe, as I think the pictures mostly speak for themselves. However I will say that it was a truly amazing experience and one that anyone who loves wildlife should come to experience.

Sunset Boat cruise

The boat cruise is where we saw the most elephants as they come down to the water to drink. Hippos and crocodiles were also abundant. Sadly we also saw a dead elephant, a victim of anthrax.

So many elephants!!!

Mother and her 2 week old baby 

Crocodile: Perhaps a bit too close

Hippo: One that is actually out of water

Dead Elephant: Was not pretty to look at and yet difficult to look away.
Vultures really are horrible birds!

Beautiful sunset

Early morning Safari

The morning safari required a bit more patience than the cruise when it came to animal spotting. It really is all luck. We were fortunate enough though to see a lioness taking it easy under a tree, plenty of game and baboons.

Lioness relaxing away from the morning under a tree

African Fish Eagle: Also Zambia’s national emblem

Kudo

Baby Baboon



World AIDS Day- 1st of December 2010

World AIDS Day (WAD) is a big occasion in Zambia, given the impact it has on the country. Working for a HIV/ AIDS focused organisation meant I was able to take part in a couple of the events which took place, all to raise awareness and present messages on prevention and advocacy for those living with HIV/ AIDS.

On the evening before WAD a Candlelight Ceremony took place in Livingstone, beginning at one of the local churches. The evening was filled with song and dance, advocacy messages and prayer. A minute silence was held prior to our candles being lit and a procession from the church up the main street of Livingstone. Unfortunately my candle kept going out, but it did look impressive when looking back down the main street.



Candlelight Procession down

Mosi-oa-Tunya Road



WAD began in Livingstone with a march down the main street to the showgrounds. Various NGOs, businesses, churches and government agencies participated, many dressed up in t-shirts and hats prepared by their organisations for the day, making an array of colour

World AIDS Day in Livingstone: 1^st December 2010

World AIDS Day March: Lots of colour

World AIDS Day March

The march lasted about 45mins before the gathering at the Livingstone Showgrounds and a 3 hour event of more song and dance, advocacy messages, prayer, poetry by local school children and viewing some of the stands that has been set up for the day.



World AIDS Day Event: Villa Ground



World AIDS Day: Song & Dance

WAD in Livingstone was very telling of the impact that HIV/ AIDS has on Zambia, especially when hearing the stories from those infected and affected by the virus. I wonder if the messages that were presented here on WAD are remembered all year around? I guess time will tell. Nonetheless it was a great event to be apart of, especially so early on in my placement.