Showing posts with label Zambia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zambia. Show all posts

Friday, April 20, 2012

Reflection: Volunteering and my time in Zambia


One year and six months in Zambia as a VSO volunteer; six months less than originally anticipated but the work I set out to do is more or less completed!


Before leaving Australia and starting out as a volunteer we are told about the ups and downs of volunteering and living in a developing country. And as much as you try to prepare for this, there are still moments when you wonder why you did it.


I’ve said before that volunteering in Zambia is like being on a giant rollercoaster and I have to say now, that it really is. There are some great highs such as meeting new people and forming friendships, visiting new and fabulous places, new experiences that you know you would never get at home and being challenged in a way you never thought possible. At the same time there are big lows. The obvious one, missing family and friends from home; really bad days at work when you question why you bother, the volunteer allowance which doesn’t allow you to do much at all and the unreliable services that come with being in a developing country (e.g. water, power).










Following on from my post on development aid, I must say that for many of my days in Zambia I have felt like I am exacerbating a problem just by being there; that being the reliance on foreign aid. I don’t believe that Zambia really has any excuse for the position it finds itself in given that it is one of the few countries not to have been impacted by civil war. It has plenty of resources such as copper, lots of fertile land, parks and animals, not to mention the beautiful Victoria Falls. It has been victim to poor government and public mismanagement as well as struggled with HIV and AIDS. Nonetheless, it is one of only a few countries to have actually gone backwards in the Human Development Index over the past 20 years with the other notable mentions being the Democratic Republic of Congo and Zimbabwe.





I’ve given my time as a volunteer in Zambia a lot of thought and decided that I would list the things I will miss about Zambia and volunteering and the ones I won’t.

What I will miss:
  • The terrific people I’ve met! The friends made in Livingstone as well as other VSO volunteers. And my two puppies, Rambo and Simba who were great guard dogs
  • The ΓΌber red, ripe tomatoes found in local markets; the avocados, bananas and mangos, all super cheap and tasty
  • Freedom to make decisions or better put as absence of the “nanny” state, meaning being able to have 3 instead of 2 beers and then being able to drive home; not having high fences around something as beautiful as Victoria Falls to stop stupid people from getting too close to the edge; and being able to drive in parks with really cool animals
  • Assisted pumps at the petrol station. I love this, I know I’m super lazy but I love being able to sit in the car on those wet or super-hot days while someone fills the car with petrol for me
  • Being only hours away from safari!







What I won’t miss:
  • NOT being able to drink water from the tap (we are so lucky in Australia)
  • Smelling the meat at the supermarket to make sure its ok for purchase, or even worse, blocking my nose as I walk through the meat section
  • Sporadic and unreliable water and electricity
  • Poor customer service. We complain a lot about this in Australia, but just try banking in Zambia after working for a bank in Australia! Me: “The ATM just returned my card and receipt without the cash”. Standard Chartered Bank Staff: “Why don’t you just come back tomorrow and check then to make sure you have the correct balance”. Me: “No, how about you fix this for me NOW”. Standard Chartered Bank Staff: Blank stare……
  • The vinegar tasting wine that South Africa exports to Zambia. I know South Africa has some great wines and that demand for it is probably still low in Zambia, but do they really need to send the garbage that they do?
  • NGOs and aid everywhere! For the reasons already mentioned







I’m not sure what will happen to Zambia or where it will be in 10 years’ time. I do feel sad for many of the people that sit at the bottom of the heap and are relying on those at the top to simply do their jobs to help improve their situation. Last year a new government took over the leadership of Zambia and although not off to a flying start, I hope they can start to bring around some of the much needed change that Zambia needs.

As for me, I’ve learnt a lot about myself over the past 18 months and from my observations and interactions with people in Zambia, an awful lot about human nature, all of which I hope will have made this experience worthwhile. 


Thursday, April 19, 2012

Reflection: Development aid and how it actually “works”


Note: This post is my views and my views only. They do not necessarily reflect the views or the work of any of the organisations I have worked for or represented.

A post that has been a long time in the works (at least in my head), but has been good to leave until the end of my latest volunteering stint.

I’d like to make the point here, that what I’m about to say refers to development aid only, and NOT humanitarian aid. The two are significantly different, the later responding to emergency situations only. I don’t know a lot about the inner workings of Humanitarian Aid; I have heard it has its own set of issues, but is also plays a very important role and I want to be clear that it is not the topic here.

So to the subject of development aid, the pros and cons, highs and lows of which have touched my life every day for the past 18 months. It has often been heartbreaking; to have believed in something so much and see it fail more often than not, so miserably.

I have to be honest; when I came to Zambia I thought that working in development aid may be something I’d be interested in. I thought it would be “rewarding”, working but working to make a difference. I wasn’t completely ignorant, I knew that there were problems with development aid, that money didn’t always get to where it was supposed to go, that it was slow, etc. However development aid, in Zambia at least, was nothing like I expected. Some of the issues are cultural; many I suspect are uniform across the world.
  
Targets and measures
Probably the biggest issue I’ve seen with development aid is how it is measured. There are the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) which most people are aware of, then there are the measures on the UN Human Development Index, the World Bank’s development indicators and country economic data, to name but a few. However on a day to day basis this is not really how things work.

The government targets that are set for Overseas Development Aid are a case in point. Once upon a time even I saw these as important, however I now view them as almost completely irrelevant. The success and need for aid should NEVER be based on some DOLLAR target (i.e. percentage of GDP). It doesn’t achieve outcomes and it doesn’t prove that aid is being successful. It is completely the wrong measure, referred to and relied upon far too much.

And it is the same at an organisational level; how much is given might sound nice, but it doesn’t mean that there has been any change to the people’s lives it is supposed to be benefiting. However and unfortunately, it is quite often the MAIN measure and to not spend 100% of one’s budget or close to, is regarded as some sort of failure. I have been told by aid practitioners in Zambia that their budget spend is one of their KEY performance measures. Of course when you apply for a grant and when you are lucky enough to receive it, you will get asked about the number of beneficiaries, changes to their situation, how many you have reached with communications, etc., which probably means that someone is thinking that these should be the outcomes. In reality however, as long as the money is spent according to how you said it would be, the outcomes really feel like a second thought.

Sub-granting
Sub granting is a tough one as in theory it allows smaller, “grassroots” organisations to aid local communities. And I guess it does this a little. However having worked for this type of organisation I have seen just how little of the money actually makes it to the beneficiaries it was originally intended for. So what happens?

First a cut is taken from the money by the first agency (usually government, sometimes a large NGO) who are required to cover the cost of the process for deciding who to allocate the money to. Then often it goes to a medium- large organisation that works throughout a large region, whole country, etc., and needs help with “localising” projects. And so they take a cut for their administration costs and again the costs of allocating the funds before seeing that the remaining money gets distributed to smaller NGOs left to run the projects. These smaller organisations also need to pay staff and run their office, so by the time this all happens only a fraction of the original sum of the money can be used for the projects it was intended for.

An alternative that is applied and often suggested as the only way to apply aid efficiently is via direct aid to governments, allowing them to designate money to the area’s most in need (e.g education, health, etc.) I actually do prefer this idea, however finding trustworthy governments in developing countries is difficult and donors like to have control of where their money is going.

I have seen sub-granting be relatively efficient, especially if the administrative cuts are small. However, it often the small organisation at the very end of the chain that loses and is expected to run projects for “free”, i.e. no administration money is allocated to the organisation. But all in all, sub granting from what I have experienced is a very inefficient process! 

Corruption and waste
Corruption or wasted funds is another area I can’t fathom in development aid. We all know it exists in aid, right? We’d be kidding ourselves to believe otherwise, however what is unforgivable is the extent of some of the corruption and misuse of aid. And what I struggle with probably the most is the “acceptable” forms of these; forms that are not considered corruption because aid agencies openly allow them to happen, hell, they even support them. What are they?

Allowances
First is allowances; sums of money paid to people within the industry for coming to workshops and meetings, or basically to do an already paid job. These allowances are often broken up for different things. You will most definitely get an allowance for transport, or “transport refund” as it is referred to. This one I have less of an issue with, PROVIDING the person is actually out of pocket because of the trip. Going to an office one block away does not constitute being out of pocket in my view.

Then you have meal allowances. Sometimes meals are just provided, but if not attendees are provided with money for any meals that are included during the time they are “engaged”. No need to pack your own lunch.

My very personal favourite is the “sitting” allowance. This one is just for the person’s presence and even then you may not get that if the attendee shows up for only half the meeting, ultimately to collect their allowance. I’m sure the idea behind this is or was, to drive attendance because apparently doing something because it is your job is not enough. Nonetheless, this allowance can get quite expensive if you wish to run a meeting, not to mention it often takes people away from the job they should be doing. On many occasions I have come across people who don’t really need to be at a meeting but are there anyway, often with very little to contribute. These allowances completely fly in the face of productivity and improving the development situation.

An example I can use to explain this is for a project that required large scale training for staff of a government organisation here in Zambia. Staff all around Zambia were to be trained on a system that they would be using for their jobs. No problem there. The problem that occurred was when staff from the head office decided they needed to also ALL be a part of this training, “attending” all three training sessions (each being a repeat of the first) and ALL paying themselves the “standard head office” organisational allowance rates. I point out that the rate was “standard head office” because the rate was significantly higher than the rest of the attendees who would be doing the actual work. Furthermore, these head office staff were not even present for a majority of the sessions. And to top it off, the donors, both large and well known multilateral institutions were aware of the budget and the proportion going towards allowances, including for the head office staff who didn’t really need to be present (well certainly not all). Disgraceful really.

Now I should point out here that there are many within the industry who are not paid, or at least not regularly, and allowances are probably a key source of income for them. However, I stand by my thoughts on the premise that development aid is there to make a difference to the wider community and can only do that if its properly directed, rather than given as “handouts” to a few people.

Workshops and training
Workshops and training sessions are another large misuse of funds. The answer to every problem in development aid is to provide a workshop or training. It doesn’t matter if the attendees have already completed 4 other sessions on Monitoring and Evaluation (M&E) or project management, more than likely they will get another one. The workshop or training will offer incredible allowances and if it’s in another location, a cosy hotel room on top of everything else. It doesn’t matter that the person undergoing training will probably not use that fifth training session on M&E, because it’s unlikely that anyone will follow up or check. One of my own personal favourite stories is of the “capacity building” organisation that was almost 100% USAID funded, offering week long training sessions to my colleagues (including for subjects they’d already had trainings on) and putting them up in Lusaka’s finest hotels. Think just how much it costs for 20+ attendees in a five star hotel, all expenses paid, sitting and travelling allowances for a week? Imagine what it could do if used to assist a local community. And what’s funny is that when sending a proposal to USAID via email, my organisation was asked to print the hardcopy and courier it to them, using resources and money that a small organisation really doesn’t have. Where are the priorities here?

Use of organisational resources
Then there is the use of organisational resources, particularly vehicles, for personal needs. Again, a tricky one as making a quick trip in the organisational vehicle to the local market is probably not the end of the world. However these vehicles, which are provided by foreign donors, are often seen speeding around town on Saturday nights; or on weekends with a staff member’s family twice removed, in the back; or parked outside of the local hotel. I’ve seen it all and does it really matter? Well I think yes. Vehicles use fuel and even if the person “borrowing” the vehicle replaces the fuel, who pays for the maintenance of the vehicle, the tyres, the registration? If the vehicles become damaged or are not maintained and need to be replaced, who is going to replace the vehicle? Most likely foreign donors and the taxpayers that support them, that’s who!

Outright corruption
There is of course straight forward corruption where someone intently steals money or resources from aid for their own gain and I’ve heard these stories too (fortunately I haven’t seen it first hand). And while the general population does not want to see offenders get away with it (which unfortunately they quite often do), many still think that this should not dissuade foreign donors from continuing to give. I was attending a workshop here in Zambia where all attendees were asked if a donor should stop giving money if their money is being stolen. The unbelievably strong response to this was that the donors should not. As the only person in the entire room (and non-Zambian) opposed to this view, I asked shouldn’t the money be re-directed somewhere else, to where it will be used properly? Isn’t the money not doing what it’s supposed to anyway? But no one saw it except me. I was simply told that “the poor people will suffer”. Hmm, and I thought they already were!

Crowding out private investment
Something I also believe is that aid, particularly from what I’ve seen in Zambia, is “crowding out” private investment and entrepreneurship. I have met many smart people, people who have ideas for businesses and good business instincts, but never go there, or only dabble, because they’re doing so well on the aid “gravy train”. And it does make sense. For reduced risk and effort you can make quite a good living off a job in aid; not everyone does, but many do. However, what if these same people were to go into business? They would be producing items and services for the local economy, probably using local materials and produce. And overtime many would start to hire workers, people from their country, providing them with employment and income to support both them and their families.

False Economy
Following on a little from my previous argument is the “false economy” that aid creates. In most cities in Zambia you can nearly guarantee some sort of lodge or hotel on nearly every street. And no, tourism in Zambia is not that busy!
These businesses exist purely to take advantage of aid and the many, many workshops, trainings, conferences, etc that take place here. And some of them charge ridiculous prices which they can charge because there is demand and organisations pay!
Aid in my mind has also contributed to the value of rents in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital. I can’t of course prove this, or at least not without doing further empirical work. All I know is that based on my own observations there are a lot of aid workers based in Lusaka, most live in pretty nice houses/ apartments and many organisations also use houses as their administrative offices and this time there is more than one to each street on average. Economics is all about supply and demand and there is large demand for housing from aid!
The impact of all this is that it pushes real businesses out to make way for those operating from aid; it also forces people with lower incomes to the outskirts of the city because they can’t afford to be in it.

What to make of all of this development aid “stuff”
I know that by writing this post that there are likely to be people who will use it as an excuse for not giving or volunteering for anyone. I guess that if that’s all someone gets out of all of this, then they were probably already in that frame of mind to begin with. However what my biggest learning from this whole volunteering and development aid experience is, is to do your research and ASK QUESTIONS!

There are some good organisations and projects working hard to make things better, that use talented, well intentioned people and try to ensure that as much money as possible makes it to the end beneficiary. But you have to find them and then you have to ask questions: What are they doing? What are they trying to change? How are they making change? Where are they making change? Who are they working with? What evidence do they have of change? Are they audited by an external party? Do they sub-grant? Where does most of their funding come from? You get the point! Some sites go a long way to doing this for you; a couple I know of are Charity Navigator and Givewell, but still ask questions!

Sadly I can’t see development aid changing any time soon. Many of the people in the industry, as well as intentioned as they are, are not business people driving outcomes. Too many see small changes for only a few as enough evidence that aid is working, despite the large sums of money going into it.

My time in Zambia has in many ways made me extremely cynical, however I know in time I will again prioritise the positives of development aid over the negatives and learn to focus again on the people it should be benefiting, but ALWAYS guarded on the outcomes presented to me.



Wednesday, February 29, 2012

From Livingstone to Lusaka


Our return from South Africa brought us back to complete craziness in Zambia. For the last couple of months of 2011 there was talk of Mike and I moving to Lusaka so that Mike could work on the implementation of a national database for the National AIDS Council. Momentum gathered in December and we thought that by the time we returned from South Africa we would have some clarity around this. But Zambia being Zambia, of course this was not the case.

So the remainder of January was spent sorting our move out, only to have everything happen in the space of literally two weeks. A frantic two weeks! The car needed repairs, Selina (our cleaner) needed new work, Rambo needed a home, I had to work out a forward plan with my organisation and that was on top of packing and two trips to Lusaka (500km away) to move our stuff. Glad that’s all over!

Leaving Livingstone has been difficult. Although it is a small town, sometimes a bit too small, we had met lots of great people and made some wonderful friends. Fortunately we had the opportunity to see most of them before we left at a small gathering at the Royal Livingstone Hotel where we had sundowner drinks followed by a lovely meal at Olga’s. Very Livingstone!

Mike and I with beautiful Victoria Falls behind us

Livingstone Farewell Drinks:
The people who have made our time there so much more
enjoyable than it might otherwise have been


We also made one last quick trip to Victoria Falls, definitely a highlight from our time in Livingstone. Super wet and now a tad cold, it was great to see them one last time.

Pretty Victoria Falls- I will miss you!

On the edge of the falls

Trying not to get wet


I did manage to find a home for Rambo; he is staying with his dog friends and our landlord in Livingstone who will make sure he is fed. I felt particularly lucky that our house was receiving two new volunteers, two lovely girls, one who reported she loves dogs. They were also able to take on Selina as their cleaner, which gave us some piece of mind.

Late January and early February were also filled with football fever as the Africa Cup of Nations took place. Think World Cup but on a slightly smaller scale, but nonetheless exciting. Zambia did make it to the final against Ivory Coast and against all the odds won! The atmosphere was amazing with people dancing in the streets, car horns, whistles and vuvuzela’s everywhere.

Taken during the Zambia v Ghana semi-final at VJs in Livingstone.
Obviously Zambia won

Happy, happy Zambians


And now we are in Lusaka. Our new apartment is located in an area called Kabulonga, a nice area with a great coffee/ cake shop, handy supermarket, a few nice restaurants and bars. 

Am I still in Zambia????

The Tuesday Market: A highlight of being in Lusaka with lovely
fresh vegetables, fruit, herbs and even tofu!

One of Mike's favourite road rules, the four way stop sign
intersections; a case of first in, best dressed- SERIOUSLY, that is
the rule!


Our apartment hasn't been quite as nice; it probably could be if we were going to be here longer than April and willing to put money into it, but we’re not, so it’s ok for now. Our biggest beef has been the bath/ shower. We don’t have a shower as the water pressure is so lousy so a bath/ bucket bath it is! And to top it off, the bath tub had been painted just before we moved in, but with the wrong paint, so sometimes we come out worse off than when we got in. Not the ideal set up especially with long hair but I’m managing (just).

Our new apartment in Luaska, top floor


Our new lounge. Not super homely but loving our giraffe "mummies"
in the background

Dining area/ study

Our awesome bathtub.....

.....and the even more awesome paint job they did!


Mike’s project has finally taken off with funding and location issues sorted. When he is finished, Zambia will have a national online database of all organisations working in HIV/AIDS throughout the country, as well as a way of capturing data to monitor progress against the AIDS Council’s national targets in prevention, impact mitigation, etc.

My situation has taken a bit longer to sort out. I still continue to support my Livingstone organisation who seem to have finally gotten things together. Just before moving we’d received $5k of office equipment and had two donor field assessments, having passed the desk assessments, each for $100k (Still awaiting the result of these). In addition to supporting my Livingstone organisation I’m also supposed to be working with another VSO partner in Lusaka, the terms of this still being sorted as I write. I also managed to get the opportunity to work with a large NGO here in Lusaka that I’d had previous contact with in Australia. They work in the area of education, especially for girls, something I’m quite passionate about and looking forward to helping them with when I start next week.

The second of the two field assessments conducted at my
Livingstone organisation before I left. Only 6 representatives at this
one; the first had 8 people assessing us

My Livingstone colleagues; hopefully they've learnt something
during my time there!


And so the days to leaving Zambia are going down slowly. The planning for our East Africa trip is now in full swing along with the realisation that we need to get super fit pretty quick if we want to climb Mount Kilimanjaro in June.

Hurry up April!

Monday, January 16, 2012

Prelude to South Africa Trip: Rambo’s Great Escape


So, day one of our trip, we had a friend kindly drive us to the airport in “Ruth”, prior to her return home to Choma, two hours north of Livingstone.

After dropping us off she came back to our house filled up her water bottle and prepared to leave. During this time Rambo (who has worked out how to open the door with his paw), snuck in, however luckily he was noticed and forcibly removed back outside. Our friend then went outside to quickly chat with someone, this time not noticing Rambo’s stealthy return back inside. She locked up the house and hid the key as instructed and made her way to the bus stop for her ride back to Choma.

Hours later our landlord noticed quite distressed noises coming from within our house and went to investigate knowing that we had just left for two weeks. Through the barred window they discovered a frantic puppy dog, who by then had managed to pull down two sets of brand new curtains and destroyed a mosquito net.

Brand new curtains provided to us from our landlord

Pulled out of the wall!!

This curtain actually came out better than our other ones

Mosquito net no longer good at preventing mosquitoes in bed

We’re still not quite sure how, but they managed to help Rambo escape through one of the back windows, despite it being locked shut and a 20kg dog needing to squeeze through bars! A bit scary on how easy it was to get him out, but so very grateful they did. 

The window which Rambo apparently was rescued through

A miracle?! No idea how he got through those bars!

A very lucky little dog!

I think he was happy to have us back from our trip :-)


Solar Power: Giving light and Income Generation


A while ago I came across an organisation working in Zambia and a few other African countries, called Solar Aid. They run some great projects such as light installations for community schools and medical clinics here in Zambia. They also have another project called “Sunny Money” where they sell smaller scale solar products through their office in Lusaka and local distribution channels, at a very reasonable price to anyone who wants to buy them.


So on a recent trip to Lusaka Mike and I stopped by the Solar Aid office and were lucky to be able to run through the products there with the Country Manager, Ellie. The result was the purchase of three of their products, a home lighting and phone charging kit, a lone phone charging kit and a desk lamp. The first two of these products we decided to give to our cleaning lady Selina and the desk lamp was for me, just because I thought it was cool and would be great for camping!

The "d.light S1", a.k.a my new camping light, providing up to 4 hours
 light all for the cost of approximately $10

Mobile phone charger: comes with solar panel and multiple phone
connectors. With good sun conditions it should charge between 5 to
7 mobile phones a day. Cost was about $16

So excited by the success of these purchases and the installation of them at Selina’s house, I thought I’d share the pictures I took. I should note here that Selina’s house does not have access to electricity or water; it is a 2 room mud house in very outer- Livingstone. Her income is also entirely dependent on her work as a cleaner and must support her daughter’s education, as well provide for all living costs. This income is approximately $12 a week. We hope the solar phone charging kit will provide additional income to her as people in her compound pay to get their mobile phones charged and that the lights will assist her daughter with completing her homework. 


Parraffin lamp: Used by most Zambian people in the compounds.
This form of lighting is incredibly ineffective not to mention the
fumes and cost  

Powapack 2.5: Comes with 2 large lights and cell phone charging
and a battery pack (pictured). All for a cost of around $70.  

Lamp turned off.....

.....lamp turned on!

Mike providing Selina and her daughter Gift with a lesson on the
charging the battery pack

Catching the rays: Solar panel outside

Outside of Selina's house

Solar panel as the centre of attention

Mike showing Selina and Gift how to charge a mobile phone using
solar energy

 A demonstration

Selina proving that she can do it all herself!