Botswana & Namibia Road Trip: Chobe National Park and Planet Baobab, Botswana

Truthfully my holidays started a bit before our September 9^th departure across the border in to Botswana. Mum and her friend Reegena arrived in Livingstone with a week to check out the town prior to the start of road trip.

So, as a result Mike and I got to do a couple of the remaining tourist activities that we hadn’t yet done such as “Walking with the lions” and the Zambezi Sunset Cruise and others that we had done before such as sundowner drinks at the Royal Livingstone Hotel and Sunday lunch at Taita Falcon Lodge. 

Mum with the lions

The lions: Unfortunately these ones are bred in captivity

Enjoying sundowners on the Lady Livingstone Cruise

Sunset on the Zambezi River

Finally, the 9^th of September arrived and we set off on our Botswana and Namibia trip, with Mum and Reegena joining us for the Botswana part.

First stop was just over the border in Botswana, to Kasane. After a quick “lunch stop” at the border post where we had to scoff down our home packed lunch before being allowed to cross the border (damn that foot and mouth disease!), we made a return visit to Chobe National Park.

"Scoffing" down our packed lunch at the Botswana border

I won’t spend much time writing about Chobe as this was our 5^th visit. But I will say that Chobe never disappoints and hopefully the photos speak for themselves!

Monkey Tree

Impala taken it easy

Mum and me: Check out what's behind us!

After a couple of awesome days in Kasane, we set off south, heading towards Nata onroute to Planet Baobab, west of Nata.

The road south to Nata was interesting; under construction, the diversion road was narrow, slow and dangerous with large trucks coming from the opposite direction and taking up much of the road.

The road on the way to Nata: Over turned car

The road to Nata: Narrow roads

On this road we also had our first negative encounter with the Botswana Police. Set up on this stretch of road was an “Animal Control” post, at which we were forced to give up our earlier purchased rump steaks (vacuum packed), salad ingredients and apples. Apparently there are different zones in Botswana and you cannot bring such goods from one area to the other. I had a couple of issue with this as:

1. Botswana Tourism fails to disclose this to tourists, so many people run into this issue after making large purchases at local supermarkets in known tourist towns, and
2. The post was for animal products only. There was no mention of vegetable products, only the police telling us that they had to take our vegetables due to issues with fruit flies. I’m not sure if they were telling the truth or not, however no where on the post signage was there mention of vegetable products, only animal. Also interesting and a little suspicious to me, was how selective they were with the vegetable products. Things like lettuce they let us keep.

I did get a little fired up during this encounter, probably a result of my built up frustration at Zambia. But as expected I/ we didn’t win and I have little doubt in my mind that they all had a lovely dinner much later J. Local hoteliers also later confirmed that the vegetable products should have been ours to keep!

From “animal control” we continued onwards to Planet Baobab, a bush camp surrounded by giant Baobab trees.

Planet Baobab

I loved this camp and the Baobab trees that surrounded it. They are truly amazing. Most of the trees are believed to be between 2,000 and 4,000 years old and are just beautiful, especially at sunset and sunrise.

The camp itself was also lovely with cute bush huts, which mum and Reegena were lucky to stay in (Mike and I camped) and a large inviting pool to chill in while gazing up at the Baobab Trees.

The pool at Planet Baobab and me in it!

One of the many huge Baobab trees

Sunset at Planet Baobab

Mike taking a picture of a giant Baobab tree

To give you some idea of the scale :-)

Unfortunately we had planned only one night there; a second night would have been great and also given us the opportunity to check out the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, which we were sad to pass by along the highway. Nonetheless, we continued on to the next exciting phase of our Botswana leg, the Okavango Delta!

Road on the way to the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans

Life in Zambia after (nearly) 4 months

It’s hard to believe, but we have now been in Zambia for nearly 4 months; it feels much longer! I don’t say that in necessarily a bad way. I think that time just goes so much slower here and it does make me wonder what the next 20 months or so will be like.

Since my last blog prior to Christmas, life has been relatively busy here with plenty of visitors, a trip to Namibia, work which has been actually quite busy, the set in of the rainy season and a few sadder events that are so typical of Zambia.

Onset of wet season

Perhaps I should get the sadder events out of the way first.

The first was the loss of our security guard’s 9 month old son. Well, truth be told he was never our guard, he was there for our neighbours, but we did get to know him well as he would often sit on our porch to read (we would leave the light on for him). His son died of malaria, something that should be completely preventable, but was initially diagnosed as malnutrition caused through teething. Unfortunately we became aware of the gravity of the situation too late and were unable to offer help. Made worse is that he has been reassigned to a different property and after we found out he earns only 150,000 kwacha a month (the equivalent of $34) for 7 nights a week, 12 hours a day.

Our other sad event was the death of our puppy Manqui (pronounced as “manky”). We adopted Manqui after he turned up on our door step unfed, flea infested, frightened of people and well, manky! Nearly two weeks with us saw him turn into a happy, playful puppy until he didn’t come home one night. Our puppy had caught a virus of sorts that seemed to attack his brain and nervous system. Long story short is that we had to have him put down to stop him from any further suffering. Unfortunately Zambia has some pretty violent dog viruses and the vets here are not resourced to deal with them.

Manqui: When he was still a playful puppy

Manqui sitting in our bookshelf

So life does suck sometimes in Zambia!

However, it hasn’t all been sad and there have been happier events…..

The first was spending Christmas in Zambia. Definitely not the same as spending it with family in Australia, but great to be surrounded by a good group of people, a braai, a few drinks, a couple of carols and all on the red African soil.

Christmas in Zambia helped by a great group of people to spend it with

We have had quite a few visitors over the past month which means we get to visit some of the cool places in Livingstone without needing to make an excuse! One of our trips took us (back) out to Taita Falcon Lodge; a lodge situated about a 40 min drive out of Livingstone due to the state of the road but in a stunning location at the top of the Batoka Gorge. We had Zambezi Bream and chips there for lunch, all washed down with a couple of cold beers.

Taita Falcon Lodge: Overlooking the approximately 200m drop to
Batoka Gorge. Me with VSO Volunteers Phyl (left) and Emily (middle)

Work has picked up in the new year as new opportunities to receiving funding have come the way of my organisation and an increased focus has developed on building organisational capacity for the challenges that lie ahead. We have been working together hard as a team to get things done and meet deadlines. I was also able to finally meet the our board members at our first board meeting for the year. Apart from some of the members struggling with my accent, it was great to meet them and discuss what needed to be done to kick off 2011 in the right direction.

The team working hard on a proposal

Our first Board Meeting for 2011

And so, the past month really has been quite mixed. Wet season is well and truly in full swing, but has been a welcome relief from the heat. We still continue to encounter regular power and water cuts, sometimes for up to 12 hours at a time, but you do learn to adapt. And over the coming month a number of the friends we have made here in Livingstone will be leaving us to return home to their respective countries, so the ups and downs will continue. But I guess that is the life of a volunteer in Zambia!

Mike and I

Taking it easy having sunset drinks