Trip to Sioma

Over the Easter weekend we decided to take advantage of the 4-day long weekend and make a trip out to the Western Province of Zambia, to an area called Sioma. With us we had 3 other volunteers who came along for the adventure!

Sioma is located in the south-west corner of Zambia and remains very much untouched, lacking good roads and infrastructure and as a result is rarely visited by tourists. To get to Sioma you really do need a 4x4 as even in the dry season it is possible to become bogged in the sand; in wet season the going can be very tough and explains the lack of a tourism industry. This is a shame given how pretty the area is, especially along the Zambezi River.

"Ruth": Ready for our adventure

Our trip out to Sioma was actually ok. We found the road to be much better than expected although we were travelling in “Ruth” with her new suspension. We also found that work has begun on building a new road there, although this is still years away from completion.

New road being built by the Chinese next to the Zambezi River
on the way to Sioma.

Untouched: Typical village along the road side on the way to Sioma

We stayed at Sioma Camp, a site based on the edge of the Zambezi River. They have chalets and a campsite; being volunteers we opted for the more economical of the two and camped. Unfortunately, as anyone who knows me, I’m not the most seasoned of campers, however the site was actually very comfortable and even had hot water for showers! I was also relieved not to come across any snakes, as I’d been dreading coming across the infamous Black Mumba.

Sioma Camp

Our campsite with Mike and my tent in the middle

 We came fairly well equipped, however still managed to forget a few key items, such as a saucepan and pot for cooking. The staff at the camp were very kind however and lent us a tea pot for boiling hot water as well as chairs and a table to eat at. We were able to improvise a bit too using foil to create a frying pan for eggs and cooking pasta in the tea pot, which worked surprisingly well.

Mike preparing to cook dinner on the campfire

Improvisation: Cooking eggs on tin foil when there is no pan

Waiting for the water to boil

Sioma Camp was just what we all needed, very relaxed with beautiful views of the river and a restaurant/ bar where we could sit and read or enjoy a few quiet drinks while looking out onto the river.

The view from the Sioma Camp restaurant/ bar, looking out
onto the Zambezi River

Enjoying a quiet drink and company

One of the main reasons we wanted to head out to Sioma was to see Ngonye Falls, about 10kms north of our camp. The falls were seen by David Livingstone about 2 years before he saw Victoria Falls, Livingstone commenting, “the scenery was the loveliest I had seen”.

The entrance to Ngonye Falls: Where they tried to charge us
more than the cost of seeing Victoria Falls

Unfortunately we probably didn’t pick the best time of the year to go and see them with the Zambezi River very high following the wet season and the falls resembling more of a very large rapid (they are only 25 metres high when the water is low). Nonetheless, the “rapid” was still pretty amazing and the speed of the water in the Zambezi incredible. You definitely would not want to find yourself floating in the river.

Whirlpools and strong currents in the Zambezi River

Rough waters

We viewed the falls from both land and on the water. From land we couldn’t see much of the falls (even though they tried to charge us $5 each, local price to see them; it costs about $1.50 local price for Victoria Falls to put things into perspective. Needless to say that’s not what we gave them). On the water the falls were amazing and we were able to drive right up to them. It was a pleasant trip moving up the Zambezi on a lovely sunny morning with a beautiful view of the banks of the river and again, we were in awe of the speed of the river and the whirlpools that developed in the water.

View of the banks of the Zambezi River on the way to Ngonye Falls.
Very Africa!

Mokoro on the Zambezi River. This would be tough work.

Ngonye Falls: One large rapid following wet season

Mike and I with Ngonye Falls just behind us

More rapids on the Zambezi River

 Sioma was a lovely weekend away and reminded me again that I was in Africa, which is sometimes easy to forget when you live in Livingstone. Great spot on the river with excellent company!

Our group (L-R): Marjolijn, Elspeth, Phyl, Mike and myself

All aboard!! A trip on the Royal Livingstone Express

To celebrate our birthdays, which are about a month apart, Mike and I decided to treat ourselves to a night out on the Royal Livingstone Express.

The Royal Livingstone Express consists of a 5 carriage, club/ kitchen car, a lounge car and is pulled by either a 10th class No. 156 or a 12th class No. 204 locomotive. The night we travelled on it, we got the 10th class No. 156, which was originally owned by the Zambezi Sawmills Limited and was used to pull logging carriages from the forests in Mulobezi to the railhead in Livingstone. The Locomotive was restored and carriages sought to provide the current service today.

The train travels along the old Mulobezi Line, which has also been restored and was once the largest privately owned railway network in the world and was set up by the Zambezi Sawmills in 1916. The journey is actually only a short ride, travelling into the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park where the train briefly pauses in the hope of catching glimpses of wildlife, and then crosses out of the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park over the Sinde River and stops 17 kilometres out of Livingstone for dinner.

The 10th class No. 156 Locomotive:
The ‘Runs Around’ to the back of the train

The Lounge Cart

When we arrived for our train ride Mike and I found a red carpet and were presented with what we thought was a glass of sparkling but actually turned out to be apple juice.

After that brief moment of disappointment, we were immediately impressed with how beautifully the train carriages had been restored inside. We sat down in the lounge car, with canapés next to each seat and our drink orders immediately taken (for alcoholic beverages this time).

Canapés and drinks in the Lounge Cart 

Mike enjoying a cold beer

The journey itself felt a little strange at first. Mike and I went outside to have a look around, but felt a little uncomfortable as we moved Dumbwa, a high density and relatively poor suburb of Livingstone. Both of us have done work in Dumbwa and felt strange having young children and adults waving at us. Needless to say, we went back inside and left the rest of the guests to do their “royal” waves.

The train then moved toward the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park. Inside the park the train stopped in the hope of seeing wildlife (which we did not) and to allow the guests to enjoy the sunset. While this is happening the Locomotive ‘Run Around’ occurred; basically when the locomotive detaches itself from the front of the train and ‘runs around’ to the back of the train, re-attaching itself on to the Observation Car. This was a highlight of the trip for Mike, as he was welcomed to join the driver as the “Run Around” took place, even with beer in hand!!

Mike "assisting" the drive as the Locomotive ‘Run Around’ is about to occur

View outside as we waited for dinner

Once we were all back on board we were moved to the dining carriage, elegantly fitted out with silver cutlery, crystal glassware, damask linen and more detailed wooden interior.

The Dining Cart: Elegantly fitted out with silver cutlery,
crystal glassware, damask linen and more detailed wooden interior

For dinner we were served a yummy 6-course meal and of course, plenty of wine! The highlight of the dinner was slow cooked lamb, our first lamb since leaving Australia and cooked perfectly, falling apart with only a fork. The Apple Tart dessert was a bit of a highlight as well.

The main course: "Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder on a Potato
Lyonnaise with Baby Carrots and Balsamic Jus"

Dessert: "Green Apple Tart with Granny Smith ice-cream and a
Lemon Reduction"

Unfortunately the night did come to quite an abrupt end after dessert, as the train headed back to Livingstone while tea & coffee was being served and barely finished when the trained pulled in.

The Royal Livingstone Express all lit up after our journey

Nonetheless, we had a fabulous night out and the train trip was worth all of the $150 they charge. It was a rare opportunity to experience what it might have been like to travel through Africa on a train in style 150 years ago. Exquisite!!

Mike and I after a lovely night out

Living in Livingstone

After being in Livingstone for five months now I thought it was time that I provided a bit more insight into the town itself and what it is like to live in. I’m also hoping it may generate some interest for any potential visitors J

Mosi-Oa-Tunya Road: The main street of Livingstone



A typical street in Livingstone, branching off the main road



I feel very lucky to have been placed in Livingstone. The town is large enough to have most things required on a day to day basis, with an estimated population of 150,000. However it is still small enough to have that “community” or town feel about it. Livingstone is also not the crazy tourist town that I had imagined prior to arriving here. It definitely has tourist aspects to it with numerous backpacker places, the Mukuni Park Curo Market and advertisements everywhere for Safari tours and the Falls. However most tourists tend to remain hidden away in their lodges, never fully experiencing the town and what it has to offer.

Mukuni Park Curo Market: A great place to buy Zambian and
African handcrafted goods

In terms of amenities Livingstone has a number of major banks such as Barclays and Standard Chartered Bank, cafes and restaurants that provide Wi-Fi (albeit super slow internet), a massive Shoprite Supermarket and bustling shops and markets full of all sorts of knick- knacks.

Mosi-Oa-Tunya Road: Shops and cafes

Mosi-Oa-Tunya Square: The home of Shoprite Supermarket

After being here for four months we have definitely found some favourite places to hang out, which is what I thought I’d focus on the most.

Olgas

Probably my favourite! Olgas is an Italian restaurant serving REAL Italian food. It has woodfire pizzas, homemade pasta, coffee and other great Italian food. It is managed by an Italian man, Guiseppe, who is always welcoming, as are the staff and has a lovely relaxed atmosphere. But perhaps one of the best things about Olgas is that is a social business started up by an Italian NGO CeLIM, with all profits going into their Youth Community Training Centre. So there’s no need to feel guilty about indulging in a yummy pizza.

Olga's Restaurant

Lucana Pizza: Sausage, Mushrooms, Onion, Tomato & Basil
YUM!!

Golf Course

We only recently discovered the golf course, however it is a lovely place to go for a run in the evening or a drink on a Sunday afternoon.

Zig Zag

Zig Zag is actually a Bed & Breakfast with a restaurant attached and beautiful garden surrounds. It is a lovely place to go for a coffee on the weekend and read a book outside under the guava and lemon trees. It also has (I think) the best cheese burger in town!

Zig Zag Coffee

Zig Zag restaurant & grounds: Beautiful & relaxing place
for coffee and reading a book

VJs

We used to go to VJs a lot for a beer in the afternoon when we first arrived, given it was unbelievably hot at the time. VJs is right next door to Shoprite and we still occasionally have an evening drink there as I love the bustling atmosphere around it. It has very reasonably priced drinks and high tables and stools from which you can watch the craziness of the town go by around you.

VJs bar: Always bustling! A great place to people watch and enjoy
a cool drink

N.B. Many of the lodges on the outskirts of the town are also great places to have a drink or weekend lunch. However they really deserve their own separate blog as some are quite amazing.

Finally this blog would not be complete without mentioning one of my favourite “landmarks” in town.

I continue to be amused by the “Zambian Architecture” of the building pictured below. From all accounts it has been under construction now for over a year and shows no sign of being completed anytime soon. Still unable to ascertain what it will eventually become (hotel perhaps?), however I’d strongly advise against ever entering it as it may collapse at any given moment. The walls on this building are not straight and actually bow out in some parts. That all said, I think the lions are possibly the most quality aspect of the building. They will probably survive the building collapsing, even if their legs are not in proportion to their bodies.

"Zambian Architecture": Not too much is straight on this
building; check out the wall at the front left which bows out nicely.
I do like the lions though!



Close up shot. Difficult to capture on camera
but look closely at the "straight" alignment
of the floors, walls and pillar barriers.



Update on the Falls

Last weekend Mike and I decided to re-visit Victoria Falls to check out how they had changed with the recent rain.

I have to say that I was expecting something pretty cool given that at the moment you can see huge clouds of spray from the falls in Livingstone, a good 10km away. However, I still wasn’t prepared for just how incredible they are at the moment.

The amount of water was amazing! Not great for trying to take photos, so you’ll have to forgive my photography; it was very difficult trying to take photos without getting the camera really wet.

Victoria Falls: Amazing the increase in water since we last visited!

The bridge where I took a lot of photos from last time was perhaps the wettest part of the Falls, to the point where it was nearly impossible to see one end of the bridge from the other.

Fortunately it was a warmer day so it didn’t matter that we got absolutely drenched! Most of the people around were wearing ponchos, however I think that just takes away from the experience.

Me completely drenched after crossing the foot bridge

Mike enjoying the cool spray 

In October we were able to cross the top of the Falls to get to some of the pools (you can swim in them when the water is lower). However this time full caution is required to not get to close to the water for fear of being swept away.

At the top of Victoria Falls

The amazing thing about seeing the Falls now is that they are not actually at their peak, with at least another month to month and a half before they are at their best. Again, not great if you’re a tourist wanting to get photos, but fantastic for us, with Victoria Falls virtually in our backyard!

View from Victoria Falls Bridge