Thursday, December 22, 2011

Zambia and the roller-coaster ride it is

I have to say that I’ve never been a big fan of the roller-coaster. When visiting theme parks, the show, etc. I’ve never been one of those people who rush for a ride on the rollercoaster, mostly because I don’t really like the whizzing around, up and down. So I have to say that it will be nice to eventually get off the rollercoaster that is being a volunteer in Zambia. However until then, I continue to ride the ups and downs, with this entry being a bit of a summary of my ride over the last few months.

To work first.

This has undoubtedly taken me on the down, down part of the rollercoaster ride. In a post prior to our big Southern Africa trip I mentioned that I had worked with the team to put together a plan of things that needed (urgently) to get done. I even went to the effort of enlarging it and printing it in colour so that it was a visible daily reminder! However as anticipated little got done in my absence. In fact, I wouldn’t be exaggerating when I say NOTHING got done the entire time I was away. So much for organisational plans!

So, my return to work was frustrating. Donor funded projects had been left wayside and my first 6 weeks back were spent trying to get things back on track (more for the donors than my organisation). I have dealt with complete selfishness as work that was supposed to be done on behalf of our beneficiaries just didn’t get done, so the beneficiaries just miss out (and the donors get the blame!). I’ve also dealt with foreign donors who fly in to Zambia, spend maybe 4 or 5 days here, spend 2-3 hours with my colleagues and then tell them how wonderful they are and to keep up the good work. They completely undo all of the hard work of me and my Japanese colleague, reinforcing bad behaviours based on their 5 minute observations! Argh, aid! It feels so completely dysfunctional sometimes!

Partner's Forum Meeting for a Sports Advocacy project being
run by my organisation

Public Forum on Sport's grounds in Livingstone

I also became aware that through a partnership with a USAID funded organisation, my colleagues had been completing training and being put up in 5 star hotels in Lusaka. Why I don’t expect that they need to “slum it”, I find this to go completely against the objectives of aid money, when you think about how much it is costing to put up approximately 30 people per training for usually 5 days, food, transport refunds and daily allowances! How much impact could the same amount of money have in a poor community in Zambia as opposed to putting up middle income “aid workers”, who I might add, in the case of my organisation, have done absolutely nothing with the training they have received. Completely crazy and I doubt that US taxpayers would be especially pleased about this. 


Workshop with our Board Members to define their roles and
responsibilities

One win that I appear to have is in setting up a partnership between my organisation and the Zambia Development Agency (ZDA). The ZDA offer some great services to Small and Medium Enterprises and have agreed to run Business Management training for free for some of our Self Help Group women. The training will be only very basic, teaching them simple business concepts such as costing inputs, calculating profit, etc. Simple, but concepts that I’ve discovered many of our SHG women don’t understand and as a result are making losses on their Income Generating Activities. ZDA also provide links to microfinance and larger businesses who may be interested in sourcing their products from the women.


Discussion with some of our SHG women to better understand what
 they need to improve their economic security

Another up on the work front is that it is looking extremely likely that Mike and I will be relocating to Lusaka. Mike has been working hard to gain support for a stakeholders system he has built on behalf of the National AIDS Council in Zambia, and has managed to obtain funds for its implementation. A huge win and very much deserved! So it seems we will both have new jobs, as Mike goes to work on his system implementation and I find a new organisation to work with in Lusaka. More to come on this……


Away from work

A little bit more up on that roller-coaster ride, although feeling the effect of living in a small town with not much to do and a struggle through the hot, hot, hot October heat.

We have managed to keep ourselves relatively occupied, with yet another trip to Chobe NP a month or so ago, a trip to Siavonga (on Lake Kariba) to visit other VSO volunteers, braai’s and dinners with friends and Mike also gave white water rafting a go. We have also started the monumental task of researching our east Africa road trip. So much to read about and plan, but at least it is fun, even if it still seems like forever until we go!


On the road back from Siavonga: This is a very common sight 

Siavonga was lovely, very pretty and it was great to catch up with Joibelle and Vinod, fellow VSOs who were in the same intake as Mike and I. There’s not a lot to do there, but that didn’t matter too much as it was roasting! I thought Livingstone got hot, but it has nothing on Siavonga. I’ve decided that I’m glad I didn’t get placed there! Anyway, we checked out the Dam, which was quite low on water, had a bit of a look around town and spent a bit of time at the various lodges eating and drinking. It was a bit strange being in the lodges who charge crazy prices and then to look out and see the rest of the town on a hill side and their shanty little houses. The divide between the haves and have nots pretty much stares you in the face. Nonetheless, definitely a place worth visiting.

The Kariba Dam: Low on water

Looking out at beautiful Lake Kariba

Lake Kariba in town

It seems there are many uses for the lake, including clothes washing!

Roadside village

Lodge in Siavionga: Hard to see, but the hill behind it
houses many  of the people in Siavonga

The hill of houses

More houses......

Chobe NP, which never disappoints, brought us wild dogs this time. Amazing and super exciting as they were one animal on my list that I can now tick off. A bonus too was seeing a smallish elephant chase the dogs away. Who would have thought that wild dogs in a pack could be so timid?

Wild dog: How cute is he?

Wild dog being chased away by a "huge" elephant :-)

Wild Dog

We also had our dog Rambo castrated, an interesting and slightly discomforting procedure to be taking place when handled by a Zambian veterinarian, but it seems to have gone well (from our point of view anyway, not so sure about Rambo’s). I don’t think that Rambo particularly appreciated the blue bucket on his head either, but it did work in preventing him from biting at his stiches.

My doggy "Rambo" with his bucket head. At least he doesn't look
too unhappy


Lots of braai’s and dinners with friends! Looking forward to the coming Christmas weekend as we spend a “German” Christmas with our friends Marion and George and their son Leonard on the 24th, and then an afternoon of yummy Christmas food on the 25th with our friends Brett and Claire at their beautiful lodge on the Zambezi River.


And to all of my wonderful family and friends at home, wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and a safe and happy start to 2012. xx  


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year in 2012!!!

















































Thursday, October 6, 2011

Botswana & Namibia Road Trip: The Skeleton Coast and Etosha National Park, Namibia


Departing early from  Swakopmund with our newly fitted roof tent, we headed north up the Namibian coast, with a long drive to Terrace Bay.

We made one major stop along the way at Cape Cross, home to a large Seal colony. We had read and heard from many people that the smell was pretty bad, however nothing can prepare you for the actual smell which hits you even before the car door opens. 

Walking towards the seals I considered going back to the car, the smell making me dry reach initially. However I went on to check the seals out and couldn’t believe how many there were. It was crazy! And they should have been cute, but the smell was over too over powering. Although they do look kind of cute in the photos now J

Crazy number of seals
Maybe a little bit cute? Still very smelly!

From Cape Cross we continued up the desolate coast, the actual entrance to the Skeleton Coast Park being an accurate indicator of what to expect ahead!

Entrance to the Skeleton Coast National Park

After a quick stop for lunch at the very pretty and isolated Torra Bay, we continued on to our final destination for the day, Terrace Bay, one of the strangest places I think I’ve ever been to!

Lunch at Torra Bay

When researching for our trip, much of the feedback on Terrace Bay was quite negative; not to go there because there’s nothing to see, that it was just a grey place or most common, that you only needed to go there once, the later which proved to be most accurate.

Terrace Bay is not a place I’d go back to, but I’m happy I have been there. The whole area, the scenery, the landscape (minus the ocean) is what I’d imagine the moon or mars to feel like.

Difficult to describe except that it's like another world!
Arriving in Terrace Bay
Our Terrace Bay accommodation
Terrace Bay beach drive

Anyway, we had one night there in a cute little house and after arriving, decided to go for a drive along the beach and just take it easy. That didn’t last long however, with the first of what became many, tyre punctures occurring.

The result of our beach drive...........Flat tyre number one!

We were fortunate to be able to get that one repaired in Terrace Bay (our first indicator that it was a common issue there) and maintain our two spares before setting off next day towards Etosha.

However, only half an hour into our trip and we had a tyre blowout, and were already one spare down.

Flat tyre two: A blowout
Then another hour after that, not 10 minutes outside of the park, another tyre puncture and this time no spares left. And so the rest of the day went with us stressing about the road, ridden with sharp rocks that we had to drive on for pretty much the remainder of that day and no spares.

Flat tyre three and no more spares......

Somehow we made it to that night’s rest stop in Outjo, where the following morning we were able to get one of the punctured tyres repaired before proceeding to Etosha National Park. We had little concern for the roads in Etosha given we had been there 10 months earlier and knew they were good!

Some may remember my previous post from Etosha in December last year and our absence of luck with animal spotting; well I’m pleased to report that this time was the complete opposite, animals everywhere!

Animals everywhere
Zebra and one impala

Etosha National Park is very different from the previous parks we had visited on our trip, where animals could be anywhere in the park due to the reliability of a river for water. In Etosha on the other hand, the animals tend to stay close to the waterholes, which is where we also stayed, with a great deal of success.

Stand-off: The elephant won!
Sunset at our camp's waterhole
Soooo many elephants
"Zebra crossing"
Spot the lion in the trees
Nothing in the distance: Etosha Salt Pans
Me on the Etosha Salt Pans

Without a doubt the highlight of Etosha for me was the 10 lions that had made their home near a dead elephant and waterhole. The elephant unfortunately had been shot by park rangers after being injured in recent wild fires in the park; sad for the elephant, but good for us cat watchers!

Lions and more lions
Snacking
One of the elephants shot as a result of recent fires in the park;
easy dinner for this lion
Awesome!
Lions everywhere! And even a giraffe in the background
Resting
A family meal........
... and plenty to go around
My favourite photo. Isn't he just amazing?! A young male lion

After a very successful Etosha trip, our luck again ran out as we headed towards the exit of the park, with yet another tyre puncture. Luckily we did have a spare again, even though it was totally dodgy! We still have no idea how that puncture occurred given the road we were on and that the tyre was virtually brand new.

Burnt out: Etosha in parts after (very) recent fires
Flat tyre four and again no more spares.......

So another stressful drive, however this time only a short one of 2 hours to Tsumeb where we immediately put an order in for 4 new tyres. Coincidently, Mike’s “dream” tyres!! J  

Looking like a very serious overland 4wd, we then took “Ruth” on the road back towards home with a couple of overnight stops in Rundu and Camp Kwando before returning back to Zambia.      

Ruth: Fully fitted out overland 4wd

Our return home unfortunately has confirmed that our wonderful water and power pre-election were just a “phase” but super happy that the weather seems so far cooler than the same time last year!